Don Farr's Blandford Cross Section Build

I have to agree with everyone's comments above. I don't make models to please other people, I build models because its relaxing and keeps my motor skills sharp. Man if we were to compare our work and build for others we would all be at the psych's on happy pills.

There is nothing wrong with your work Don, its coming along great :)
 
progress pictures showing the re-do of most of the carlings and ledges to keep them in line as much as possible, there maybe more to do but so far looking at it from all angles can not find any, it took me a week working 6 to 8 hours a day to get it to this point, if anyone notices any others please let me here, also showing the bitts dry fitted, and MDB No. 1, all coments appreciated,20190323_012139[4471].jpg20190323_012311[4470].jpg20190323_012423[4469].jpg20190323_012606[4468].jpg20190323_013256[4467].jpg20190323_013502[4466].jpg
 
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thant you Dave I do have some questions for you, if you notice the finish is really messy right now what do you sugest to use to clean it up it has a witeish color from sanding, does not look good at all, I have been using MIN-WAX NATURAL STAIN on most of my models very disatisfied with the results, when first applied it looks good but after it dries it is bad notice my lower deck finish, and other parts what else can I use as a finish. THANKS Don
 
Dave yes on some places, in the past when needed I was using ZAP A GAP, almost impossible to clean up with shiney spots all over, using new CA as JIM SUGESTED MERCURY ADHESIVE MEDIUM, applied with the new DOPPLOR, and I can get it clean does not leave shiney spots and with some scrapping with a XACTO, I can get it off fairly easily, I really do not like to use CA but sometimes it is unavoidable, in some of my past builds and you can see it on my deck clamps have bee using an accerator and found out it was causing some very serious discoloration have not used the accelerator on this MDF at all, I think that so far the MERCURY ADHESIVE WILL BE OK WILL TEST IT OUT, so what is your sugestion as to cleanup. THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP Don
 
Don, I have noticed that super glue is so thin that it goes so far into the tree that it is impossible to sand down,
when I tried with a dark stain afterwards, the stain did not penetrate the tree where I had used super glue.
Therefore, I will avoid super glue in my construction.
 
Knut, I no the problem very well I try to avoid CA whenever possible, do not like the stuff you are correct it does penetrate in the wood impossible to sand out, but JIM in his log used MECURY CA, so far it looks like I can sand it off and using an EXACTO BLADE scrape it no shiny spots have not tested it out with any stain yet but will do it today will let you know how it turns out, alst using a doopler to spot it works great, much better then my make shift aplicator, I had been using ZAP A GAP medium terrible to use, may be the MERCURY CA will work hope so. Don
 
Sanding and scraping are a good ways to remove glue residue from wood. Remember, PVA glues (TiteBond etc.) will block stain penetration also. One way to check is after you sand and scrape, wipe down the area with mineral spirits. It should uniformly darken the wood. Any “shiny”or lighter areas still have glue and need more sanding or scraping.
 
Jim On the OIL FINISHES that you use, which do you consider the best, and the easiest to use, TUNG OIL or DANISH OIL(WATCO witch also comes in stain colors) as I can no longer drive I get out once a month to do all my shopping with my SON-IN-LAW this is the time I get to go, so stopping to pick up stuff at MENARDS. THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE HELP Don
 
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